7 pm, Chandni Chowk, Delhi.
The enthusiasm for putting work behind them is telling on the faces of those who gather in this bustling area of the national capital. Traces of tiredness blur into smiles as Delhi readies itself for what few call ‘the hour of madness’. After all, 7 pm marks the beginning of a show.
In a few seconds from now, spherical deep-fried shells will line the counters of the various chaat (savoury snacks) outlets. Potatoes and onions will be diced with finesse, and then waltz into these puris. Tamarind chutney (a kind of spread) will rain down on the mix adding its flavour. While one outlet witnesses this act, another watches as dollops of butter wear their dancing shoes as they glide onto the stage that is aloo paratha (flatbread filled with potato). The dance is seamless.
The audience too is obliging — generous with their praise, demanding an encore. Plates upon plates of chole bhature (a curry made with chickpeas and spices, eaten with deep-fried flatbread), gol gappas and parathas are doled out.
And if you want a front-row seat to this show, here’s where you should be heading.
1. Aloo tikki at Ashok Chaat Corner
A dish beloved across the national capital, the aloo tikki (a croquette made with boiled potatoes, peas and curry spices) is at the heart of its street food scene. And if there’s one outlet that outdoes itself in this regard, it is Chawri Bazar’s Ashok Chaat Corner. Since 1948, the outlet has been hailed as a reference point for the fresh potato pattice.
The chaat corner is a testament to Delhi’s love affair with snacks. Don’t believe us? The influx of customers is proof. The menu is void here, as customers are ready with their orders as soon as they arrive. One more aloo tikki, please!
2. Rama Chole Bhature
The origins of chole bhature is a point of contention, with some stories suggesting its roots trace back to Haryana while others say it was Delhi where it was born. But the fact that Delhi does chole bhature better than any other city lies undisputed. And Rama Chole Bhature manages to impress.
A fan of the fare here is none other than Delhi lad Virat Kohli who shared in an interview, “Hands down they are the best chole bhature I have tasted. You should go and have it fresh. The bhaturas are so soft that a finger’s touch can flatten them. Paired with onions, green chutney and mirch ka aachar (chilli pickle), it’s just fabulous.”
3. Paranthe Wali Gali
This iconic street in Delhi’s Chandni Chowk is a history lesson whose pages are filled with timeless recipes of the beloved aloo paratha. “Legendary” is how it is described by many who flock to get a taste of their favourite comfort food at the outlets that dot the lane. With matar (peas), khoya (dried whole milk), bitter gourd, and rabdi (a sweet made with condensed milk) making up the filling, the choice of chutneys is equally compelling. Stop by at Kanhaiyalal where the bhindi paratha (bread stuffed with lady’s finger) is a bestseller, or at Sharma Bhojnalaya where the lassi (sweetened milk) is said to rival its parathas or at Babu Ram Parantha where the papad paratha is a crowd puller.
An article by The Times of India highlighted how actors Akshay Kumar, Vidya Balan and Rajat Barmecha confessed to being fans of the parathas here.
4. Kebabs at Jama Masjid Area
If you’re looking to sample Delhi’s best non-vegetarian food aka kebabs (meat roasted on skewers) and nalli nihari (a stew made with mutton and spices), head to Jama Masjid. The bazaar outside is a foodie’s paradise. The air around agrees too. Aromas of succulent meats, paya soup (soup made with goat trotters) and mutton delicacies waft out of the dekchis and bhagonas (traditional vessels), lending this area the name of a food haven.
During the holy month of Ramadan, the outlets capitalise on the time, offering iftar (fast-breaking evening meal) to the Muslims who offer prayers at the Mosque. Chef Manish Mehrotra shared in an interview with Conde Nast, “In Delhi I go to eat kebab at Qureshi Kabab near Jama Masjid. The kebabs here are very regular but the way he finishes it in butter and masala takes it to another level, it is kebab in a new avatar and I say hats off to his innovation!”
While kebabs take centre stage here, the nalli nihari beckons for attention too. Celebrity chef Ritu Dalmia has also time and again reiterated her love for the dish at Al Jawahar near Jama Masjid.
5. Hira Lal Chat Corner
India’s chaat scene has dramatically evolved through the ages. Food historian K T Achaya’s book ‘A Historical Dictionary Of Indian Food’ speaks of the dahi vada (lentil fritters soaked in curd) being over 500 years old, while another tale suggests that chaat was actually an antidote to a cholera outbreak — during Emperor Shahjahan’s reign when the royal physician Hakim advised mixing the contaminated Yamuna water with spices like tamarind, coriander, mint and red chillies to kill the bacteria.
History has witnessed numerous reincarnations of the simple vadas and chaat and Old Delhi’s Hira Lal Chaat Corner has been one of the foreplayers in serving these. Out of its many renditions, the khera kulle ki chaat trumps everything else. Guests are lured by the promise of age-old recipes and legacy culinary secrets finding their way into the chaat here. And the dish comes recommended by blogger Aayush Sapra who couldn’t stop gorging on it. Here’s a peek.
6. Khemchand Daulat Ki Chaat
Available only during the winter from November to February, the daulat ki chaat (a fluffy dessert made of milk) is the season’s protagonist. Legend says it is the dew from the cold winters of the national capital that turns a pot of milk into the daulat ki chaat.
Reality has it that it takes more than just dew. Generous helpings of sugar, saffron, nuts and silver foil also play their part well. The dish is said to be the invention of the Botai tribe of Kazakhstan that makes it using mare’s milk. And if you want to sample one of the best daulat ki chaat, head to Khemchand’s.
7. Ram Laddu in Lajpat Nagar
Where can I get Ram laddu in Delhi? There’s only one right answer. As any true Delhiite will know, Lajpat Nagar is the stop for you. In one of his videos, celebrity chef Ranveer Brar shared that he discovered the joy of these sweets much later in life and sorely missed not having tasted them earlier. Nevertheless, he is making up for it now.
8. Prabhu Chaat Bhandar
Along Delhi’s Mansingh Road, an 89-year-old outlet started by a gentleman Nathu Laal has been delighting its patrons. The outlet is strategically located opposite the UPSC Bhavan, giving it the moniker ‘UPSC Chaat’. The story goes that the outlet has seen a rebellion of its own, paralleling the freedom struggle as founder Nathu fought the British Raj to continue keeping his shop open.
It is hearsay that celebrities like Manoj Kumar and Rajesh Khanna have also frequented the stall. Chef Saransh Goila took to Facebook to share his love for the aloo tikki and aloo chaat here. “My favourite was the aloo tikki and the aloo chaat! The tikki had an amazing crunch, as it was double-fried. Topped with some lacha pyaaz (crunchy onion rings), chutney and dahi (curd) it will satisfy your palate like there is no tomorrow!”
9. Old Famous Jalebi Wala
“We use desi khandsari sugar for making the syrup instead of regular sugar, and the jalebis (an Indian sweet made with flour and curd) are prepared using desi ghee, cooked over coal-fire. The menu comprises only four items – jalebi, rabri, aloo samosa (fried Indian pastry with potato stuffing) and matar samosa (fried Indian pastry with pea stuffing),” reads the website of this legendary place started in 1884. The place is recommended by Delhi Food Walks’ Anubhav Sapra.
Edited by Pranita Bhat
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