Imagine yourself atop a crag on a hill, a sea of orographic clouds painted crimson by the sun beneath. From under the sea emerge little blue hills, intersected by verdant valleys — like little islands placed by an artist to complete an unfinished sculpture. A woodpecker and a bulbul harmonise to the haunting whistles of their neighbour, the grey-headed thrush. Together they weave a song — a prelude to the maestoso the mountains would build.
The Kangchendzonga has extended an invitation to witness its splendour. In front of you, a gentle breeze clears the clouds, and the massive mountain of white appears in an orange silhouette as an alpine smell takes over. Many have called it ‘The Sleeping Buddha’.
At a lofty altitude of 3,636 metres (11,930 feet), Sandakphu, nestled in the Eastern Himalayas, in West Bengal’s Darjeeling district, offers a world that enchants, inspires, excites, and calms, all together — the perfect playground for nature enthusiasts.
How to reach Sandakphu?
Sandakphu is located in Singalila National Park, a unique sanctuary that straddles the Indo-Nepal border. The mighty Himalayan bear, the elusive red panda, and the rabbit-like Pika are some animals that call it their home.
To reach this ecological haven, one must first reach the town of Mane Bhanjyang. The town, part of which lies in Nepal, derives its name from two words — ‘Mane’ meaning Buddhist stupas and ‘Bhanjyang’ meaning a pass or a junction. The international border here is a small culvert, a narrow drain separating the houses in Nepal from those in India. It is an open border and Indian citizens are free to explore either side.
Before the COVID-19 pandemic, a Friday Haat (market) would see people from both sides of the border gather to buy their weekly essentials. Since then, the market has been suspended, but the vibrant Sunday market on the Indian side remains a hub of cross-border exchange.
Mane Bhanjyang, located about 28 km from Darjeeling, is accessible via the nearest railway station, New Jalpaiguri (85 km), or the nearest airport, Bagdogra (82 km). Travellers typically reach Darjeeling first, from where numerous vehicles operate along the 28 km route to Mane Bhanjyang.
For those limited by time or physical constraints, you can travel about 32 km uphill to Sandakphu in a vintage Land Rover. Around 30 of these 1954–57 models still function as taxis, making the journey itself an adventure!
However, if you wish to truly soak in the breathtaking landscape, nothing compares to experiencing it on foot.
The Sandakphu trek: A journey through the clouds
“There are several trekking routes, across both India and the Nepal border,” says Sasang Gurung, who offers tours as part of the ‘Sandakphu and Beyond’ group. “On the first day, we climb about 2,000 feet to reach Tumling.”
The journey could begin from either Mane Bhanjyang or nearby Dhotrey.
Tumling, situated in Nepal’s Illam district, is clustered by a few small cottages and huts. It is reminiscent of an age where time, perhaps, moved slowly. The idyllic setting and proximity to nature make it a perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle. Alternatively, you can halt at the Tonglu peak in India, a few kilometres ahead; but be prepared for a steeper climb the next day.
If luck permits, and it is a moonless night, and clouds are scant, you may find yourself serenading the sky after the sun has set. If you’re travelling between March and September, spot the constellation Scorpio and you will be able to see the centre of the Milky Way galaxy, bedazzled by the bright blue dots of countless stars.
“On the second day, we trek up to Kala Pokhari,” Sasang informs. A slightly larger establishment, Kala Pokhari is named after the seemingly black lake it houses (‘Kala’ meaning black and ‘Pokhari’ meaning lake in Nepali). At an altitude of 3,000 metres (9,842 feet), it’s the perfect place to rest and take in the breathtaking surroundings.
Finally, after a challenging but rewarding climb, you will reach the summit at Sandakphu, a vantage point from where you can see four of the world’s five highest mountains — Everest, Kangchendzonga, Lhotse, and Makalu. Kangchendzonga, your constant companion, would stand out — its cluster making up a golden or white silhouette that gives it the name, ‘The Sleeping Buddha’.
Another route that trekkers use starts from Rimbik, or nearby Sirikhola, about 55 km from Darjeeling. “It’s due to the accessible motorable road we have nowadays that we choose the Rimbik route,” Keshav Gurung, who runs the Shikhar Tarry homestay in Mane Bhanjyang, explains. “Groups like ‘India Hikes’ regularly use this route. They drive from here till Rimbik and then climb up from the other side through Phalut,” he adds.
Where to stay in Sandakphu?
If you’re planning a trip to Sandakphu, it’s best to keep at least a week in hand. “From Sandakphu, it’s your choice whether you want to reach Phalut or climb down through Rimbik,” Sasang says. The descent from the summit ends in the town of Rimbik and passes through Sirikhola.
Phalut, the second-highest peak in West Bengal, remains a popular spot among trekkers due to its pristine location, breathtaking views, and colour tapestry created by full-bloom rhododendrons. Many believe that the trek to Sandakphu is incomplete without setting foot on Phalut.
“The Phalut trek would take at least five days,” says Sangay Sherpa, who manages the Singalila Jungle Lodge in Palmauja near Dhotrey. “There is no dearth of lodging throughout the entire journey,” he adds. Dhotrey is among numerous villages that trekkers choose to acclimatise before starting their Sandakphu journey.
Sasang informs that the Singalila Ridge is dotted with such offbeat destinations. Since tourism is an important means of livelihood, there are a sizable number of homestays and lodges. However, it is best to make bookings in advance, particularly during the holiday season, Sasang recommends.
Does it snow in Sandakphu?
Yes! The higher altitudes have traditionally been blessed with snowfall between the months of December and February. However, it has become a tad bit erratic, thanks to climate change. “We had some light snowfall in September,” says Sasang. “Last year, it snowed in March.”
They inform me that the best time to make the trek is between September and November when the skies are crystal clear, or March and April when the forests are lush.
But if you’re up for it, any time is a good time.
Before you set off, make sure you’re properly prepared. The weather in the mountains can change in an instant, the chill may be unfamiliar, and the lack of urbanscape may pose challenges. So pack trekking shoes, a thick jacket, a trekking stick, a torch (your phone’s battery might not last long in these remote regions), and plenty of nutritious snacks to keep you energised.
Every step of the way, you’ll find yourself in a mystical passage — through time, nature, and spirit. The mountains, the forests, the colourful flowers, and the stars above — all come together to create an adventure that is sure to leave an indelible mark on your soul.
Edited by Pranita Bhat
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