Wednesday, March 5, 2025

400 Years Ago, A Portuguese Viceroy’s ‘Table Manners’ Gave India Its Beloved Alphonso

The first sign of summer isn’t just the rising heat — it’s the scent of mangoes ripening in the kitchen, their sweet fragrance filling the air. As children, we’d linger near the straw-filled baskets, gently pressing each golden fruit, hoping to find one perfectly soft and ready to eat. The wait felt endless, but the first bite made it all worthwhile — juicy, buttery, and bursting with sunshine.

Every family had its favorites — Langda, Dussehri, Kesar — but one mango stood above the rest: the Alphonso. Silky smooth and impossibly fragrant, it was a fruit meant for special moments. But here’s something surprising — this beloved mango, now the crown jewel of Indian summers, was first introduced by the Portuguese over 400 years ago, leaving behind a legacy as rich as its taste.

A mango fit for a king

Not all mangoes were made for careful slicing. Many were fibrous, their pulp best enjoyed the messy way — juice trickling down chins, hands sticky with sweetness. While this was part of the charm for many Indians, the Portuguese, who ruled over Goa in the 16th century, were accustomed to neatly cut fruit at their dining tables. They wanted a mango that was smooth, easy to slice, and elegant to serve.

The Alphonso was named after a Portuguese general Afonso de Albuquerque.
Image credits: Wikepedia

Enter Afonso de Albuquerque, a Portuguese general and viceroy. His men introduced the technique of grafting — a method of combining the best traits of different mango trees. Over time, they cultivated a mango that was not only sweeter and silkier but also easier to cut. In honour of Afonso, they named this prized fruit ‘Alphonso’ — and the rest, as they say, is history.

Call it what you will, it’s still the king

No matter where you go in India, the love for Alphonso mangoes stays the same — even if the name changes. In Maharashtra, it’s fondly called Hapus, a name that instantly brings back childhood memories of sticky fingers and summer afternoons.

Call it Hapus, Hafus, or Aphoos
Alphonso mangoes go by many names, but the love for them remains the same

In Gujarat, it’s known as Hafus, while in Karnataka and parts of Goa, people call it Aphoos. But whatever the name, one thing never changes — its rich, buttery texture, irresistible aroma, and melt-in-your-mouth sweetness. The Alphonso isn’t just a mango; it’s a taste of summer itself.

Why Ratnagiri and Devgad Alphonsos taste so good

The best Alphonsos don’t just grow anywhere. They come from Ratnagiri, Devgad, Sindhudurg, and a few other places in Maharashtra’s Konkan region.

If you’ve ever tasted an authentic Ratnagiri Alphonso, you’ll know what makes it special — the unique red soil, the salty sea breeze, and just the right amount of sunshine. This combination gives Alphonso mangoes their signature saffron-yellow colour and rich, creamy sweetness.

Ratnagiri
Alphonsos from Ratnagiri and Devgad sell out within hours.
Image credits: Alphonso Mango

For generations, Konkan farmers have carefully nurtured these mango trees. Even today, Alphonsos from Ratnagiri and Devgad sell out within hours, with people paying premium prices for an original GI-tagged Alphonso (yes, there are fakes out there!).

A mango that crossed oceans

The Alphonso didn’t just win hearts in India — it became a global star. For years, Indians living in the US and Europe longed for its taste. In fact, the US banned Indian mango imports in 1989 over pest concerns. But in 2007, after much negotiation, the ban was lifted — and soon, Alphonsos were flying across the world again!

Devgad alphonso mango
Indian mangoes have apparently gained access to the US markets only after 2007.

Today, Alphonso mangoes are exported to Dubai, the UK, Singapore, and even Japan. But for many of us, nothing beats the joy of eating one straight from a market in Mumbai or Goa, with juice dripping down our fingers.

More than just a mango — a tradition

In many Indian families, Alphonso season is a festival of its own. Grandparents tell stories of how they’d wait all year for that first box of mangoes. Families argue over the best way to eat them — some swear by aamras and puris, while others love thin slices with chilled milk.

Mango tradition
Almost every Indian will trace a variety of mango to a childhood memory.

And let’s not forget the fierce debates over which city has the best Alphonsos! Ratnagiri lovers and Devgad loyalists have their own opinions, much like cricket fans arguing over Virat Kohli vs. Rohit Sharma.

In 2018, Alphonso mangoes from Ratnagiri and surrounding regions were given a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, meaning that only mangoes grown here can officially be called ‘Alphonso.’ This helps protect farmers from counterfeit sellers and ensures that the real Alphonso continues to shine.

Sources:
The Story of Alphonso Mangoes: By Aditi Shah for PeepulTree World, Published on 11 April 2023 
Here’s How India’s Favourite Alphonso Mango Got Its Name: By Anushka Mukherjee for Homegrown, Published on 8th July 2021
The History and Origin of Alphonso Mango: A Fruit with a Royal Pedigree: By Digvijay Patil for Kokan Development

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