When we think of tea in India, images of sprawling British-established plantations often come to mind. However, long before the British East India Company set its sights on Assam’s fertile lands, indigenous tribes like the Singphos had already integrated tea into their daily lives. Their traditional methods and rich history challenge the commonly held belief that tea culture in India is purely a colonial import.
The Singpho Legacy: India’s original tea connoisseurs
The Singpho tribe, residing in parts of Northeast India, Myanmar, and China, have been brewing tea for centuries — possibly since as early as the 12th century. Their age-old techniques involve heating tea leaves in a metal pan until they turn brown, sun-drying them for several days, and then packing them tightly into bamboo tubes to be smoked over a fire. After about a week, the processed tea hardens into the shape of bamboo, resulting in a distinctive flavour cherished by the community
This traditional tea, known as phalap, holds a special place in Singpho culture. According to local oral traditions, the name phalap is derived from the words pha or kha, meaning “what”, and lap, meaning “leaf”. This interpretation is based on community legends passed down through generations and documented by tea historians and enthusiasts. Legend has it that two brothers, exhausted from their travels, chewed on an unknown leaf that rejuvenated them — leading to the discovery of tea.
The British encounter with indigenous tea
Eager to break China’s monopoly on tea, the British were actively seeking alternative sources. In the early 19th century, British adventurer Robert Bruce learned of wild tea plants in Assam from Singpho chief Bessa Gaum (also spelt Bisa Gam). This encounter, which took place in the early 1820s, marked the beginning of British interest in Assam tea.
Later, another Singpho chief, Nigro La, undertook the first tea plantation in Assam, thus introducing the native plant to the British. These interactions laid the groundwork for what would become a booming colonial enterprise.
Recognising the commercial potential, the British soon began large-scale cultivation in Assam, leading to the establishment of vast tea estates. Initially, they experimented with Chinese tea varieties, but over time, they found that the native Camellia sinensis var. assamica — already used by indigenous tribes—was better suited to the region’s climate. However, it’s essential to acknowledge that these developments were built upon the indigenous knowledge and practices of tribes like the Singphos.
Preserving a rich heritage
Today, efforts are underway to preserve and celebrate the traditional tea-making practices of the Singpho tribe. Enthusiasts and cultural historians are documenting these artisanal methods to ensure that this rich heritage isn’t overshadowed by commercial tea production. The unique flavour of phalap offers a window into India’s diverse tea traditions, reminding us that the story of tea in India is as varied and rich as the country itself.
While the British played a significant role in popularising tea cultivation in India, it’s crucial to recognise and honour indigenous tribes like the Singphos, who were the region’s original tea artisans. Their centuries-old traditions not only highlight India’s deep-rooted connection to tea but also challenge the narrative that tea culture in India began solely with colonial intervention.
Edited by Khushi Arora
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