This month, why not head to France? Not the one in Europe, but a short flight and scenic drive away — in Puducherry. With French charm and Indian soul, this coastal town blends Parisian-style boulevards with South Indian spice.
Visiting Puducherry is like waltzing into an Instagram feed; one decked with mustard-yellow colonial villas, bougainvillaeas spilling out of their balconies. It’s a moodboard of pastels.
Just when you think this town can’t surprise you further, there’s Auroville — an experimental township a 22-minute drive from Puducherry.
No agenda here, only a calm waiting to be embraced. Have 24 hours to spare? Let’s explore this pastel town.
Where to stay in Puducherry?
- Gratitude Heritage
The Gratitude Heritage homestay in Puducherry promises to sate your appetite for a good thriller with an iron safe embedded in a wall of Room 4, which, try as many have, cannot be prised open. This mystery is as compelling as the story of how the homestay found its way into the boulevards of Puducherry. Hosts Siddarth Saikia and his mother Jyoti recall it being a “crumbling and dilapidated spot” whose history dates back 200 years.
Pieces of trivia will colour your stay.
For instance, did you know the facade of Gratitude Heritage was featured in the film Life of Pi (2012)? In 2019, the homestay featured in a BBC travel documentary series The Real Marigold Hotel.
With its Franco-Tamil style of architecture, decor that’s punctuated with local crafts, and art workshops that offer you a chance to let your creative side run wild, the Gratitude Heritage homestay is a respite from your otherwise breathless routine.
Address: 52, Romain Rolland St, White Town, Puducherry – 605001.
Book your stay here.
- House of Blue Mangoes
Juggling a bohemian setting with classic Tamil architectural sensibilities is a task. But the House of Blue Mangoes does it well. Its Tamil courtyard, thinnai (verandah or porch), and meals inspired by South Indian influence are beautifully juxtaposed against its European aesthetic. The three rooms — Kavya, Isaioli and Calanjali — feature colonial-style beds and are filled with memorabilia in the form of paintings, old photographs and more.
Here’s another bit of trivia that might hold your fancy: The name of the home takes inspiration from David Davidar’s 2002 book.
Address: 11/13, St Theresa Lane, St Theresa St, MG Road Area, Puducherry – 605001.
Book your stay here.
Where to eat in Puducherry?
- Coromandel Cafe
The ingredients are just part of the pretty mise en scene at the Coromandel Cafe — all produce is sourced hyperlocally. But that’s not the only crowd puller. Incepted by Chef Jay Adams, the cafe’s details are in the architecture.
As architect Abhay Narkar shared in an interview with The Postbox, “Back then Pondicherry had two distinct quarters: Tamil Quarters and French Town. Most houses and buildings in the Tamil quarters have been rebuilt. But the French colony remains a heritage getaway. We looked at a lot of houses and cafes within the French Town while ideating for the Coromandel. We wanted it to be more indulgent and eclectic without being too overpowering and away from its architectural roots.”
Some highlights of the menu are Harissa spaghetti with chicken meatballs, eggs benedict, baked cheesecake, grilled fish and the burgers.
Address: 8, Romain Rolland St, White Town, Puducherry – 605001.
Book your table here.
- Ciclo Cafe
A unique concept, Ciclo Cafe is one of India’s first cycling cafes. Started by avid cyclist Ashish Thadani, the space ‘The Ciclo Way of Life’ is located in The House of Upasana, which you might recognise as Pi’s childhood home from the film Life of Pi.
Recycled tyres essay the role of lampshades; the pastel vibes add to the ambience. The menu is light and snacky with pastas, mac and cheese, steaks, fish and chips.
Address: No:23, Rue Romain Rolland St, White Town, Puducherry – 605001.
Book your table here.
- Creole cuisine
While in Puducherry, you absolutely have to sample a legendary gourmet cuisine — Creole — which at first glance might appear to be Franco-Tamil but also borrows from Portuguese, Dutch, and Bengali inspiration.
The poster ingredients are coconut, turmeric, eggs, freshly caught fish and broad beans; the spiciness of some ingredients is tempered by the dulcet tones of others.
Some recommendations to try this cuisine are Hotel de l’Orient on Rue Romain Rolland, De l’Orient for the ratatouille (French stew), Salle A Manger for the peerkangai eraal puttu (bay-fresh shrimp cooked with ridge gourd and coconut), and the Fun Restaurant at Dune Eco-Beach Resort for the Creole speciality made with red beans and vegetables.
Where to explore the heritage of Puducherry?
For the people of this sleepy town, their history is sacrosanct.
Despite people of various cultures who have settled here, the town has managed to shield itself from the impact of modernity. And you can take a walk down these history lanes with guided heritage tours organised by INTACH.
On these walks, you’ll be introduced to the story of Puducherry. It spans from the first century AD when the Romans came to trade here in dyed textiles and pottery — you can see these at the Pondicherry Museum — to 1521 when the Portuguese traders settled here to 1674 when the French established their settlement to 1761 when the town was razed to the ground through 1768, where much of the old town of Puducherry was built.
The heritage walk covers the French Quarter, Puducherry’s Old Tamil neighbourhood.
What are the popular adventure activities in Puducherry?
While Puducherry might seem like a sleepy town that’s waiting to catch a wink or two, it does have an adventurous side to it, too. You could always try out kayaking and paddleboarding in the backwaters of Chunnambar or near Paradise Beach; take a cycling tour along the East Coast Road; or a hike to the Ousteri Lake.
How can you add value to your Puducherry trip?
- Mantra Pottery
At Mantra Pottery, clay takes on beautiful designs in the form of functional stoneware, tiles, and even terracotta planters. For the past three decades, the pottery studio has been running successfully. The initiative was started in April 1994 by Angad Vohra who had come to join Auroville as a community member back in 1979.
While they encourage visitors, you might want to call ahead of time as the studio tends to get busy.
Address: Nr Afsanah Guest House, Kottakarai, Auroville, Tamil Nadu – 605111.
Register here.
2. Sadhana Forest
Sadhana Forest, founded in 2003 by Yorit and Aviram Rozin near Auroville, works to restore arid land and promote sustainable living through ecological revival and environmental education. It focuses on replanting the endangered Tropical Dry Evergreen Forest (TDEF), supporting local communities with water conservation, and involving children in hands-on ecological activities.
And you can be a part of this green endeavour.
The community is open year-round, inviting anyone committed to sustainable living to join. Join them in recreating the forest.
Address: 1, Sadhana Forest Rd, Auroville, Pattanur, Tamil Nadu – 605101.
Register here.
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